Mit dem Herz in der Hand und der Leidenschaft im Bein

FIFA World Cup 2010. We all know about it, even though we all may not watch it. But here, in Germany, to not even watch Germany's games, is unheard of. This is my second time in Germany for the World Cup, and last time it was even more exciting because Germany was hosting it. This year, Germany's team is not the strongest of those entering the arena, but their 4-0 trampling of Australia last night was definitely nothing to sneeze at. The first night of the World Cup I found myself watching Uruguay vs. France (0-0) at Golgatha Biergarten. It was PACKED - about what I expected for a Friday night on top of being an opening night for this event. We showed up just in time for the beginning, so we couldn't all sit together. Eventually I found seats for myself and 4 others, sitting with two ladies a little older than us, originally from Ukraine and Russia. We had some interesting conversations with them, and ultimately I couldn't have asked for a better night. Saturday I wasn't really looking to be outside at all since it was raining on and off and I knew Sunday would be crazy. A new friend and myself walked down the street to a small cafe, usually only open for breakfast and lunch, to watch the US-UK (1-1) game on a HUGE screen with one other man. It was perfect. 

Watching the German game at Olympic Stadium deserves its own paragraph. We got there finding it to be fairly empty, though it got pretty full just in time for the game. It was just what I was wanting to be a part of, and exactly what I expected. We went through some security and found ourselves on Fan Mile which was located in the big area leading up to the actual Olympic Stadium from the 1936 Summer Olympics held by the Nazis. There were three jumbo-trons, vendors on both sides selling beer, crepes, traditional German food, fruit drinks, merchandise, and so on and so forth. There were high tech station like things from Sony, Hyundai and Coke, the major sponsors of the World Cup, where you could play video games and get a free can of coke. We finally settled in what we learned to be the standing room only, rowdy, student like section right up in front of the main stage. There, for the two hours of pre-game, a big radio personality hosted a show with various bands/artists (really, nobodies) and FIFA Live tournaments on PS3. People were crazy with their chants, songs, mosh pits, horns, and just about everything you can think of. But I did seem to find myself standing next to a German guy who had been to Philadelphia working for an American company. Crazy. They were expecting about 200,000 people there. I'm not sure that that actually was the case, but there were definitely thousands there. 

There was no doubt that nationalism was running high. Everyone runs around with flags draped across their bodies and painted on their faces. They attach little flags to their cars and chant and blow horns throughout the streets and subway. According to a video we recently watched in class, however, this is about the only time German nationalism is really showcased. The Nazis promoted the flying flags, no matter if it was at school, home, work, etc. In fact, the Nazi era was when the most German flags ever existed. But now, unless you're around for the World Cup, the only time you'll really see one is at big important building, typically of the government persuasion. Why though? The German question of identity is a HUGE one among scholars. We are just now meeting the generations of Germans who have never been divided into the East and the West. Some Germans don't know what holidays flags should be displayed for or even know the words to their national anthem; I'm not even really positive which verse they sing! The idea of "Deutschland, Deutschland, über alles" (Germany, Germany, over all people) scares the Germans more than any other nation. It's important to remember that people are still healing from the divided Germany, particularly in Berlin. That, the only area in which they want to be the Weltmeister, or Master of the World, is in soccer. In fact, anyone who suggests any other kind of "imperialistic" ideas is looked at as crazy, including the recently former President of the Federal Republic of Deutschland Horst Köhler who stepped down because of his controversial remarks about the War in Afghanistan.

The way I see it is, the World Cup, not the flag or national anthem, has been the unifying figure for this city and this country. It is the one thing, no matter how long they've lived in Germany and what they've seen, that every citizen can identify with. Having the World Cup in Germany in 2006 was probably one of the best things that ever happened to this country in contemporary history. Watching the World Cup among Germans rooting for their team is a unique experience. There is really nothing like it in the United Sates. Our entire country rooting for one single team by the thousands in outdoor plazas and parks, along with the typical bars and restaurants - it doesn't happen. My favorite World Cup song is by Sportfreunde Stiller called '54, '74, '90' 2010. It's based on the World Cups Germany has won, and how they will get it this time around...  It talks about the history of Germany and everyone knows it and sings it. They'll be the World Master with their hearts in their hands and their passion in their legs. Click this link to the watch and listen to the music video.