Last week I went to Copenhagen for a whooping day and a half. This trip was sparked somewhat last minute because a) I felt like I wasn't traveling enough away from Berlin and b) it was inexpensive to get there. Little did I know what little adventure I was getting myself into...
On Tuesday night I left my dorm on a bus at 12:30 to catch my 6:30 flight. Why you ask? Well, I'll tell you with two simple words: public transportation. The bus that comes to my area shuts down between 12:30 and 4:30 am and the train I typically take shuts down between 2 and 4 am. Perfect when I needed to be at the airport on the other side of the city by 4:30. Anyways, I took a bus to the train, and then the train to a night bus and finally arrived at Schönefeld Airport by 2:30. When I hopped on the night bus, I propped my feet up to sleep for the hour ride, and realized I had one blue flip flop on, and one black one. Awesome. But, for the first time, I was that person who you pass on the bench at the airport, totally wiped out. Thankfully I had my pillow, my faithful companion, and could get almost 2 hours of sleep on a bench right by the EasyJet check in desk. The discount airline was also a new experience for me - having to walk across the tarmac to get on a plane where I did not have an assigned seat with no boarding preferences. But, it was easy and the flight went smoothly. I got to the airport in Copenhagen decidedly exhausted and on a mission to get a map they pass out for free of the city, get some cash in the local Danish Kroener and somehow navigate their pronounced prestigious public transportation system. Some even argue it's better than London's... I can't really say either way because I only used it once. But I was only able to figure it out with a very friendly transportation employee who got me the right ticket. I arrived at my hostel very easily by 9:30 am. Motivating myself to actually go into the city was the next step.
I first stopped at a 7 Eleven which are EVERYWHERE in Copenhagen, and bought myself a banana, Diet Coke, and a snack pack of cashews for a whopping $10. Welcome to Scandinavia! Feeling better, though, after eating (since I hadn't for over 12 hours) I went on to wander to the middle of the city. Honestly, there's so much to see there I wasn't sure where to begin. I'm sure most will appreciate that one of the first things I managed to find was the major pedestrian shopping street, by accident, of course. I also went into the town hall without going through any security. And, eventually landing myself at the Amalienborg Palace where the changing of the guard would take place around noon.
I sat and observed the guards who had patrolling duties based off their little posts, only moving for the ceremonial steps at every 15 minute chime from the clock in the square. There are actually four palaces in this immediate vicinity, each with a guard. These guards are around 20 years old, and are on their last leg of their one year duty. Apparently the two or so months spent as the guard are highly dreaded, and I don't blame them. Their uniforms were incredible, but they most definitely lacked the discipline to the easily comparable to the guards in London. They are also permitted to talk, as to make sure all visitors remain beyond 5 meters of the walls of each palace. The actual ceremony took a half hour and afterwards, as I was walking back, I passed the barracks for these guys and two of them being reprimanded outside by the sergeant who I saw swarming during the entire ceremony.
I got back to my hostel to finally check in a re-group and was terribly surprised when I walked into my room to find that the bed I was assigned was literally 9 feet off the ground. I could not reach the top of my bed from the ground. There were 9 people in my room and it was super small. And, on top of that, the hostel charged me extra for needing sheets. So, by the time I got settled a bit and complained enough about my hostel situation, I went back out to the city with the determination to go on a boat tour. This decision was by far the best I made throughout this entire extravaganza.
I learned and saw so much about this country and the city in the hour an a half, more than I could have ever hoped for... this is all thanks to the man made canals throughout the entire city which were produced by prisoners of war at the time. It's also worth noting that the water in Copenhagen is RIDICULOUSLY clean. As in, it used to be terribly dirty and then they spent 30 years scraping all the bacteria out of the canals, as in, people can swim in select places of it now, as well. In fact, the water used to be so dirty, that in medieval times they realized it would be cheaper to produce beer than to clean the water for its people and more importantly and specifically the sailors. This led to a daily ration for 16 liters of beer per sailor for he and his family. Enough said.
The Danes can boast some of the longest standing civilized history in the world. They came through just about every stage of mankind possible and are 100% in tact on the other end. Not to mention they have the oldest royal family in the world. Copenhagen will do whatever possible in order to preserve the medieval facade of its buildings, the flag (really a pendant, like Ohio - holler to MC and all his pendant flag pride) is possibly the oldest flag in world history and the navy in Denmark was, all of which still seem to be a great pride of the people. In order to do something, like preserve the old look to their city, they put copper in the material when building new buildings, so eventually over time it'll take the same look as the buildings that have been there for hundreds of years.
Another side note about Copenhagens is their love of their bikes. Everyone rides their bikes everywhere. So, if there's a way to do it on bike rather than car, they'll do it - pushing or pulling children or dogs or food; bicycling with one hand or no hands, in tandem or solo, in the morning, late at night, to work in suits, or to play in bathing suits. You name it, they do it. The city even has free bikes for tourists located around the city that you can take to tour around. The only rack that I found had one bike left with a broken chain, though, so I didn't get to be a part of this luxury... Regardless, I have never seen so many people who ride bikes, not even Japan.
After my boat tour, I wandered around a little more, looking for a pub recommended by my Lonely Planet book. I found it, realizing I needed more cash, and had quite the time finding an ATM to get more. Once I did, I was really excited to get a bite to eat in this place described as a place that truly "distils the essence of everything great about Nyhavn's salty sea-dog atmosphere, with nightly live folk music." Perfect. Only, when I got there it was not so perfect as I was one of three people eating in this pub. My faith in Lonely Planet, however, is not gone, as this is the first time I've ever found them to be kind of wrong. I'm sure this place can be exciting... just maybe on the weekends? I got a bacon cheeseburger with fries, which I wish I would have gotten a picture of, because it was most definitely not what you were thinking. The burger was automatically cooked rare and I'm not really sure what kind of cheese was on it, all with some lettuce, I think, and a couple crazy sauces I'd never tried before all between thick dark(er) bread. It was fantastic, for sure, and the bar tender and I got to talk for a while which was really nice.
My new friend doesn't even live in the city, probably because he can't afford it, and couldn't even tell me the really great places to go out at night in Copenhagen because he's always working at the pub until 2 am. He was REALLY interested in why a young American would come to Copenhagen all by herself, and wanted to know what life was like as a student in the US. He told me that I should try and visit the other Nordic countries, but that Denmark is the best, so I made the right choice. I appreciated our conversation, during which, he also said, that tonight was the night of the week when he gets his tips, so he would maybe stay in the city a little while longer and grab a drink himself. I made sure to tip him better than what is typical in Europe, and with a great thanks from him, I found my way back to my hostel.
The next day, I woke up a little later than I wanted to, so I felt REALLY rushed to do everything I wanted to... After getting my breakfast at the hostel, I made my way to the shopping street once again to find the standard bell for my mom, and magnet for my grandma. Then went on my merry way to the Nationalmuseet (National Museum) to take an hour long free English tour of the exhibit on the beginning of Denmark, and well, civilization. It was VERY cool, with lots of artifacts from the bronze, iron and golden ages. Our tour guide, I think, was being observed by her boss, which was also an interesting dynamic, as she tried to chorale us around, pay attention and even laugh at her not so funny jokes. The museum is HUGE with tons of exhibits from all different time periods, but I could have spent an entire day just in there. But, instead I crossed the river to climb the Rundetarn (round tower) of the Trinitatiskirke (Trinity Church) to see the entire city. It was amazing! And part of the climb was around the golden staircase on the outside of the tower. What a beautiful city!
Not far from the Trinitatiskirke was a neighborhood that everyone says you should visit while in Copenhagen: Christiania. Described to me by the Danes as the youngest child that no one wants to talk about, this is an alternative community based from a group in the 1970s of military squatters who took over some run down military barracks. You're not allowed to take pictures within the compound of this area where its residents do not pay taxes and live by their own education system. The majority of people I picked up as residents were young adults and people who probably were there in the beginning of its foundations and have never left. The housing is run down and people were selling things on the street I was afraid to ask as to what it actually was, knowing the amount of soft drug trade here. There were lots of little artsy shops and cafes to walk around and an outdoor market, too. I had planned on spending an hour here, as the books rave that it's a must see, but I only lasted 15 minutes. I felt terribly uncomfortable amongst these people. Maybe it wasn't a fair evaluation of them in the small time that I was around, but it was just NOT someplace I wanted to be roaming about all by myself.
After my rude awakening back into the reality of the REAL Denmark, I wanted to see one last thing before I left, the Marmokirken or Frederikskirken, the royal church. The dome of the church is the 5th largest in the world. It was beautiful, yet simple at the same time with one organ for decoration and one for actual use. I stayed for a little, wanting to gather myself, get out of the heat, and just enjoy someplace so quiet and beautiful before I needed to head back and get on my crazy way to Berlin.
My bus ride was suppose to last seven and a half hours back to Berlin, but ended up lasting closer to nine. It was actually pretty nice, because I was the only one on the bus who didn't have anyone sitting next to me, and therefore could sleep in a more sprawled position. My nap was interrupted by our ferry ride which lasted almost two hours. It was beautiful, though, to see the Baltic Sea, and I actually befriended a couple Americans from Charleston, S.C., and played cards with them for part of our ride. When we got back to Berlin, I helped them on their way to their hostel and finally got home myself at about 2 a.m.
Copenhagen was a crazy kind of trip - an experience like none other. When I first arrived there, I didn't get it. I was truly almost mad that I made the trip, but by the end, I became a changed woman. I loved it there among all the beautiful people and their bikes and water and boats. They are quirky people, not really afraid to put themselves out there, especially when it comes to street performing; I'm pretty sure I even saw a Viking leaving Burger King. They love to talk, smile, laugh, and their English is better than mine! As a first time to Northern Europe, it was a great experience, and I definitely want more. I underestimated this expensive city, but now there's a special place for it in my heart. Realizing, with the help of Google Maps, I walked probably close to 15 miles while I was there, I was glad for my second pair of shoes that I packed. But, with a blue shoe on my left, and black on my right, I left this quirky city, as quirky as I myself could be, very pleased with how my little trip to Copenhagen turned out.
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