The Three Essentials to Everyday German Life

Bikes: 

Germans ride their bikes, a lot. In fact, 12% of the people use a bicycle in Berlin as their only transportation. There are specific bike lanes almost everywhere you go. I have now gotten into the habit of not just looking before I cross the street, but before I cross the bike lane in order to get to the crosswalk to cross the street. Should you even dare to stand or walk on the bike path, the Germans will ring their annoying little bell that essentially means, "get the hell out of the way, NOW!"  If you remain in their way, most Germans would  have to think twice about which would be more ethical: running over you or re-routing their path. Germans also love their bikes so much, many trains and busses have a specific holding place (which then takes up seat space, might I add) for your bike when you want to take it to another part of town to ride around there. 

There are obviously (because it's Germany, duh) many rules to bike riding that everyone must abide by. So much so, when I lived here in 2006, my house mother wouldn't allow me to ride a bike for the first couple weeks because she didn't trust that I knew how to signal when I wanted to turn onto another street. When she finally gave me a bike to ride, the chain came off on my first adventure, causing an accident (only with myself), which included a nice gash in my leg. I'm not really sure she trusted me on one after that, because I couldn't ever just go get a bike out of the shed, she had to be the one to get it, so she knew when I was actually using one. Needless to say, I have not attempted any sort of bicycle anything while here in Berlin, including a bike tour of the city, or the Beerbike you can take with a group of people and a bar tender - you paddle around the city center drinking beer for an hour or two. Perhaps I'm un-German that way.

Flowers:

Germans love their flowers. There are flower stands everywhere selling all sorts of arrangements, for dare I say, cheap prices. When you get on the trains or busses or are simply just walking around you are guaranteed to pass someone carrying flowers. Why? In Germany, you don't go to someone's home without flowers in hand. Americans bring wine, or sometimes food, but in the good old fatherland you bring flowers. Not much more to add to that other than it MUST be in odd numbers - apparently even numbered bouquets just don't look full enough.

Dogs:

There are so many things I could say about dogs, but an excerpt from a reading we had for class does it all the justice in the world. Therefore I'm just going to quote what it says:

"The Germans are fond of their pets, which come in two forms  - Alsatians, and preposterously small poodles wearing little woolly jackets and ribbons in their hair. The point of these creatures is to be Obedient and Loyal (Alsatians) or to eat expensive chocolates and pooh everywhere (poohdles). Saying anything rude (or even mildly critical) to a German about his dog is more than your life is worth. All dogs are beautiful, and the world is their litter tray.

Those Germans who do not own a dog are strange (and could even be eccentric). Those who own a cat are certainly Communists and may be cut dead in the street. If the man next door acquires a budgerigar or hamster, any self-respecting German will think about moving house (and perhaps going to another town all together)." 

- "Xenophobe's Guide to Germans" by Stefan Zeidenitz and Ben Barkow

Honestly, it's true. German dogs go EVERYWHERE (the train, bus, shopping malls, etc.), and probably the most popular breed that I've seen here is the Dachshund; but, I think I've seen just as much a variety of breeds here as I would at home. They are THE most well behaved dogs you will ever see. Constantly 100% in tune with their owner, their voice and their command. Then I think of Lucy - yeah, right. The only complaint most people have is that owners do not pick up after their dogs poo, which are called land mines. Not to be confused with the myth of land mines in No Man's Land during the divide, which only actually existed between the borders of East and West Germany, not Berlin. Regardless, it's gross. Other than that minor downfall to the German order, dogs clearly only add to society here, and are far more accepted than in America.

And that, friends, is just a tid bit of what all you would need to know in order to get along in German society today. Sure there are lots of things that make this country go round, but these three things here, are all that you truly need.

Freedom

My July 4th was not spent the way I would most likely describe as ideal for such a fantastic holiday, no, there was nothing terribly American about my day at all. But, I did, ironically, have quite the conversation about freedom...

About a week ago, I was on the S-Bahn and picked up a cell phone that a lady sitting across from me forgot when she got off. Having a recent casualty to the D.C. metro, I did what I had hoped someone else would have done for me; not to mention, people have done in the past. My cell phone has been found on curbs, in intersections, locker rooms, and so on, they called one of my parents in my contacts and my phone was recovered. After trying to text from her phone to the last person she called and failing miserably (I think her friend received an attempt or two), she just called me and we went from there. Ulrike was certain that she MUST repay me, so I left my email address with her phone at an information desk in my favorite book store, for us to be able to connect. I agreed to coffee this past Sunday with her in the outskirts of the old Jewish area of Berlin, and I was actually pretty excited for it. My high expectations were certainly not let down. 

Ulrike is a 43 year old math and physics teacher at the private American based high school called the John F. Kennedy School. She's even lived in Washington D.C. between 2000 and 2004 teaching at the private German high school there. She grew up in a small Eastern German town not far out of Potsdam and moved to Berlin in 1989. She expressed her love for America and how much she enjoyed living there. We talked primarily in English but I tried to insert German when I could, and she obliged with welcomed corrections. We talked about politics, religion, history, and social problems within Germany, America and the rest of the world. But, we just kept coming back to the idea of freedom.

Ulrike told me her parents died right after the Wende (a term used for the transition in Germany right after reunification) and only saw Germany in the eyes of WWII and divided - living in the GDR. They never got to travel, or really be free. She said her mother always dreamed of being able to travel to Paris, but never got to. And Ulrike said something like being able to travel has never made her feel more free. We talked about how some Eastern Germans don't even know what to do with themselves because even though they had nothing in the East, they had a job, and now, some of them don't even have that in a unified Germany - this being an issue we have learned a lot about in my class... Some would prefer that the division still exist! But, not Ulrike. Her concern now is for the freedom for other groups of people in our world today. 

She carries, with her, a great guilt for what happened to the Jews in WWII, and believes in the support the United States provides to Israel. So much so, that she doesn't understand why the Germans, themselves, do not do more. And, having worked in a school in the lower income areas in Berlin before her time in the US, she feels for the Turkish girls she taught who would stay at school as long as they could to avoid having to go home and do house work. It upsets her that these girls are expected to focus on working for the family business or in the house instead of pursuing things like education, which is what they really want to do. We talked about the difference in religions, extremists, and how this can taint the idea of any group of people and how good or bad they may be...

Nothing amazed Ulrike more than the idea of a black man rising to be president in our country. Interestingly, she does not know much about President Obama and his politics, merely what he "stands" for and that he is simply a change from President Bush. Ironically, there was no doubt in her mind that she agrees with the good things that are being done in Iraq or Afghanistan.  She even said that she became a little more defensive of the Americans when she returned to Germany with all the regular bashing of the government and president. Honestly, none of these mentalities surprised me, except for one: her opinion of Chancellor Angela Merkel. 

I immediately asked her, after she said how she was amazed that America would elect a black man, if she didn't feel the same way toward Angela Merkel. She is not only the first woman to be chancellor in Germany, but is also an Eastern German. Ulrike replied with one big negatory, that Chancellor Merkel is too much a power hungry, forward, rough and tough kind of female and politician. Oh. To her, she's too conservative and laissez-faire, "like Bush," and is on her way down. Interesting. I don't know if I'll ever understand how Germans justify the differences between the different kind of politicians, and what, in their opinion, makes them great or not. 

Regardless, my new friend and I agreed that the world would be way better if its problems could merely be solved over coffee on a Sunday morning in the middle of Berlin.  I was so glad to spend the morning talking with someone about nothing other than the idea of freedom on my independence day. There was no doubt to her that America has done great things for her country, and that what we stand for is a wonderful thing. Tears were brought to her eyes among the euphoric madness of Berlin in 1989 when she finally felt she could breathe again and was free. 

After I left Ulrike, with a gift in hand and a hug as she went on her way to explore Ukraine with a friend the next day, I was determined to do some things in the city that I wanted to do before I leave this upcoming weekend. I spent a lot of time walking, stopping at Checkpoint Charlie, the Topography of Terror Museum and then to the New Synagogue. All three just so relevant to the hope and idea of freedom. Checkpoint Charlie, an American station that filtered people coming in and out of the sector during a divided Berlin. The Topography of Terror Museum, positioned over the old Gestapo headquarters, had great new exhibits on the timeline and persecution of the Nazi party. There was also a fantastic exhibit of photographs taken by Jews who lived in the ghetto and were commissioned by the government in order to promote the "good things" about ghettos. The pictures were of the children going to school, the sick being cared for and the other Jews working - something the head of the ghetto used as a deterrent for the deportation of its members to extermination camps. And lastly, the New Synagogue, which was only partially restored. The museum was small because they chose not to rebuild it the way it was before the war and communist regime. But, it allowed me to learn more about the practices of the Jewish religion and prevalence of the Jewish community in Berlin pre-WWII. Two of these places I had visited before, but the third I had not. I was more than happy to repeat, because as I get older I appreciate things for different reasons. 

Freedom means different things to different people. To some it's being able to practice a religion, move from country to country, being able to buy anything you want with the money you work hard for, or simply being able to have a right to vote for your new and up and coming president. Either way, people are still people with needs... There was no doubt to Ulrike, no matter who is in office or what not, that America stands for great ideals that most people are envious of. If I couldn't have been home eating hot dogs and pretzel salad while watching fireworks, I don't know that I would have wanted anything else out of the holiday. 

"Let every nation know, whether it wishes us well or ill, that we shall pay any price, bear any burden, meet any hardship, support any friend, oppose any foe, in order to assure the survival and success of liberty" - JFK 

Die Ordnung

One day I was on the S-Bahn on my way to class with a few people who I live with and was eating a banana for breakfast. Sadly, the top of my banana got squished brown, so I was only really willing to eat the bottom half. Being stuck with the top half of my banana awkwardly wrapped in its peels I didn't have time before the doors shut to throw it out. A friend told me to just drop it in between the door of the train and the platform when all of a sudden a German woman looks up and immediately says in clear English, "Don't do it!" Like a 6 year old child I responded with assurance I wasn't really planning on it, as she was telling me it would make the train slip on its tracks. Ok, lady. I sat down as the train was leaving and told my friend I'll probably just throw it out the window once we get to a grassy area. Well, that was just NOT okay with my new German friend, and she pulled her pastry out of the bag from the bakery and gave it to me to put my banana in. I literally could not wait more than 2 seconds after I got off at our stop to burst out laughing. What a great start to my day... 

The German "order" is something that I feel can be fairly notorious among other people in the world. Honestly, I have found nothing to disapprove such a stereotype. The Germans have an idea as to how things should be: don't cross the street unless the little Ampleman is green, don't be too loud on the subways and most definitely do NOT put paper in the waste basket for bottles, or the wrong kind of wrapper in the basket for the paper, if you're early, you're on time, if you're on time your late, demonstrating in the middle city is only acceptable if there are police officers accompanying you the whole time, etc. And most definitely do not even THINK about smiling at someone unless you actually know them. 

Germans are a funny people. They can seemingly be pretty hard to read, hard to approach, but are definitely easy to love, particularly the older generations. But, for them, it works. So, I just thought I'd share a little anecdote to feed all the hunger of what the Germans may be like... The Answer? Exactly like what you'd imagine. 

Marathon

The first full day, last Sunday, that I was here I had two missions. 1. To go to orientation. 2. To find a girl who goes to Pitt, Brooke. Brooke and I had made plans to get together before we went to the school and then go to orientation together. Unfamiliar with the transportation system, I had directions to and from both of our locations from the school, so my master plan was to go to the university and then back track to Brooke's. Once I had arrived at the university, while waiting for the bus, I realized that a "Velothon" (bike race) was going on and therefore my bus was not coming. In fact, as I began to walk the route of the bus I wanted to take, I came to realize that the race route was EXACTLY my bus route. I found my way to Brooke's, eventually, after walking an hour a half. Finally I got to spend some time with Brooke and made my way with the group back to the university in time for orientation. Everyone was nervous and eager, but it was interesting to see the group there all together. 

I feel like after a whole week, giving a play by play might get a little long so I'll try to talk about the important things!

I've spent a good amount of time in the city. Primarily on Unter den Linden, which is the main drag in Berlin. This is where you find the Brandenburger Tor, the German History Museum, Opera House, where the palace once stood, the Berliner Dom, etc. I've also spent some time on the Kurfürstendamm which is the main commercial center of Berlin. Both areas I've been to already twice before in my life. Every time I'm here, things are different because Berlin is an ever changing city. I also appreciate them for different reasons and different points in my life. 

My class is interesting... it's been a bit boring at times this week because my professor (who, of course, is right) believes we cannot understand this city or country without understanding its past. So, we've been covering a lot of modern German history which I'm pretty familiar with. We spend the morning twice a week going over our readings and having lecture, which also usually involves some sort of movie. After our second and longer break, we go out into the city for an excursion. Tuesday we spent the afternoon in the German Historical Museum, and Friday we took a walking tour of the city. Thankfully the weather has been getting nicer and warmer so that it's a pleasure to be outside for these mini trips. 

As a group we've now taken a River Spree cruise which was chilly, but fun. And today, we went through the Reichstag, which was definitely enjoyable. I've also enjoyed watching a free opera outside the State Opera house yesterday, Eugen Onegin, and then a tour of the opera house today where I got to walk on stage. Any of these outings have typically included spending time with students from my program, grabbing something to eat, or what not. One day, a guy from Notre Dame (it's painful, I know) and I sat at a cafe speaking only German for about an hour and a half. I'm thankful for the students who push me to do that, because we all live together and all use English as the common language around the dorm. I've also befriended a Russian with whom the common language is German, therefore I'm getting better at having deeper conversations in German. 

Honestly, nothing terribly exciting has happened. Just getting into a groove. I'm so tired, all the time, but I do feel my language skills are picking up. Sometimes when I'm calling home, it's hard to not say certain words in German rather than English. The focal point of this week, for me at least, is building relationships with the people I'm living and going to class with. They teach us in Air Force leadership training that there are 4 steps to group formation: Forming, Storming, Norming and Performing (Storming and Norming can be switched). Anyways, I feel as if personalities are starting to rub people the wrong way and competition is high. 

But, as I was walking along this huge bike race a week ago, I was thinking about why on earth people would want to do this; I watched the super fit hard core bikers at the head, and the stragglers at the end. Everyone has the exact same goal: to finish. Some people wanted to win, to be the best, and for some people, it was a self accomplishment of being able to simply make it across the line. I feel like we, as students, are here for the same reason. Everyone has a different idea of what their experience in Berlin should be like, they all want something different out of it. I'm not sure what exactly my goals are for this trip, but I'm sure I'll find out soon. In the meantime, I'm trying not to let those who have goals I know I don't share bother me, or change my experience. 

Having a week to just be here, was probably exactly what I needed. I've started to really understand the layout of the city, and have solidified what I've already understood relating between the history of the city and the buildings I see. Everyone's friendly throughout the city, most of them trying to speak English as it is a VERY international scene. I also really enjoyed speaking to a security guard outside the US Embassy who has been working there since 1986, but is from Indiana. Truly, he has seen it all. Now all we see are green spaces where No Man's Land is and buildings that actually survived the war with bullet holes patched up. I'm determined to figure out this city and my class, I know, will help me do so. 

Anyways, there's still so much to see and do. I'll try to be more diligent in my blogging, especially when I make specific or special excursions. I'll try to post pictures soon, too!

"Happiness isn't happiness without a violin-playing goat."

London certainly didn’t fail me today… it rained just about the entire time I was out before my flight to Berlin. After I ate my free breakfast in the hostel, which really only consisted of cereal and toast, I packed up all my stuff to leave in the luggage room and was on my way to, what I thought would be, Kensington Gardens. As I made my way on the Tube, which I wish I could boast I’ve become a pro at using, I saw that just a couple stops past where the stations for the gardens was the stop for Notting Hill. Due to my (almost) shameful love for Julia Roberts films, I decided to go there. I legitimized this past just wanting to see the area because of the movie by telling myself I haven’t been in that area anyways.

When finally arriving at the station I noticed the fact that there was a crowd of people shuffling about, and realized that I was probably going toward the same place they were.  That place would be Portobello Market. Apparently world famous, so world famous I had never heard of it? The station at Notting Hill had exits toward Notting Hill Gate North and South... but I never found actual gates, sadly. I thought they would be rather picturesque.

As I followed the crowds I found myself walking along an EXTREMELY busy market, because not only is it world famous but it was also Saturday morning - shopping prime time. There were all different kinds of shopping: retail shops, antique markets, outdoor fresh flower and fruit vendors, food booths, and just about everything you could think of. 

Walking along, the smell of tobacco was everywhere and old Beatle's records were playing through speakers for the whole block to hear. At one point, I heard a vendor who was selling jewelry say, "Last time I lied to a woman, it cost me a lot of money, so I'm not lying to you." I bought a strawberry with cream crepe at a vendor who made it in about 2 minutes right in front of me for 3.50 GBP, it was scrumptious.  Honestly, it was exactly what I needed for the amount of time that Ineeded to kill... There were people from all over the world there to shop and barter, so although I wasn't really shopping myself (though I did find one treasure - see pictures), it was great to just walk and people watch. 

After finding my way to a metro station, hopping on a train, thinking I had the system down, I panicked thinking I got on the wrong train. Turns out I didn't. Smooth. So, as I said before, I wish I could boast that I'm a pro at the metro thing, but I am most definitely not. Eventually I got back to my hostel, packed my things, hung out for a few, and made my way to London Heathrow once again. This time I only rode the metro to Paddington Station, therefore only having to by a day metro pass for zones 1 and 2 rather than zones 1-6 (a $5.00 difference), which I very quickly compensated for by buying a Heathrow Express train ticket (18 GBP). Having only a 15 min ride on a nice train with shelves for luggage and comfortable seats, compared to trying to juggle my (approx.) 100lb of luggage on a hot metro train for almost an hour was well worth the money. As usual, I have my oldest brother to thank for the advice. 

My disdain for airlines and their money sucking ways was only heightened when I got to the desk for BMI and had to pay 11GBP for ever extra kilo of luggage I had past the set limit of 20kg for checked luggage. I managed to figure my luggage so I only had to pay for 7 kilos instead of 12. I will not make the mistake of checking two bags on the way back. For. Sure. My flight was slightly delayed, but a nice quick one that still arrived on time... German customs was quick and easy. The customs officer did not say one word to me, but thankfully stamped away in my lovely passport. I have an affinity for stamps in my passport. 

Once I juggled my luggage once again, I quickly realized how dead Berlin Tegel was. Which, kind of reminded me of how difficult itwas when Matt and I flew into TXL in 2004. The buses are not easy to find and there were no currency exchange counters open. I understand that it was about 9:00 pm, but JFK and LHR definitely had all of their offices open that late... people are still flying out! Anyways, I got money out of the ATM and had decided prior to even arriving to Berlin, based on how tired I was, that I would take a taxi to my dorm instead of try and navigate two or three different busses. I thought it would be dark, but it doesn't get dark here until closer to 10:00 pm. The cab, again, was well worth the money. 

The Schlactensee Student Village is easy to navigate, and I got the my key from the drop box (since I arrived after hours) finding out I was thankfully in house number one. A couple guys were at the door to greet me and help me move my luggage to my room which is happily on the first floor. They essentially told me to drop my stuff and run to the supermarket because it was going to close in a half hour and nothing is open on Sundays, so I did. My grocery list consisted of: chips, bananas, water without gas, bread, peanut butter, Special K cereal, milk, strawberry jam, plastic baggies and most importantly 1.5 liters of Mezzo Mix Zero. My FAVORITE German drink (besides their beer). My groceries cost under 15 euros, which isn't too bad for all the essentials! 

I came back and unpacked all my things, which I promised myself I'd do before anything else. I also spent some time getting to know everyone who's staying in my building... mostly all Americans, some from Canada, but everyone is in the same program as I, so that's nice. About 8 girls share one bathroom in our hall with 3 showers... my room is all to myself, though, about very comparable to a Tower C room (woo woo Pitt!) The two floors share one kitchen with a couple fridges, dishes and pots and pans we can use, etc., a big dining room table in its own little space, and a lounge with couches, a table, a tv, and lots of places to sit. Perfect. The student village has its own computer lab, club/bar, laundry (I think), and tons of dorm facilities. It's essentially the college campus without the actual class room buildings. Another frustration of the night is the wireless, which now obviously works, but wasn't last night... I made sure the maintenance men who were working on it today knew the troubles we were having. 

Anyways, it's cozy here. I need to go buy some tape so that I can hang the posters I brought in my room, and then I can post pictures for everyone to see! Everyone is friendly an anxious to start and I am, too. I'm beginning to realize I'm in the minority for the amount of people who are conversational in German here... interesting. It's chilly and kind of rainy, so I'm hoping that'll change. Also, I feel it's important to point out that I am staying no where near the center of the city. I'm probably 10 miles out of the middle of Berlin. This was probably the biggest shock for me. I have yet to go into the city...

As for anyone who hasn't lost interest, sorry this is so lengthy, but I think that's all I have. Stay tuned for more!

Pictures:

1. Lyons' Tea: This is my one purchase. It's perfect for so many reasons! a. It's Lyons, duh. b. That family drinks tea like it's their one job in life.

2. Picking the perfect flowers: This older man is a vendor and Portobello Market. Probably has been for forever. He was selecting a flower pack for one of his customers.

3. Sewing machines: For Grandma Oakes. There was a pretty fashionable store with walls decorated with hundreds of old Singer sewing machines!

4. The crowds at Portobello Market.

5. Beautiful houses at Notthing Hill.